How To Add Molding To Billy Bookcase

How to build a "custom" looking built-in with IKEA Billy Bookcases Hack

This mail service volition go over how to build a "custom" looking congenital-in bookcase using IKEA Baton bookcase shelving as the base. Essentially, you are going to wrap the meridian and bottom of the bookcases with a wood skirt that you will then attach various trim molding and other trim pieces to give it that custom built expect. There are a number of existing "hacks" that I looked at to draw inspiration but the principal 1 is this one. I followed most of the instructions just came beyond a few steps that were left out or non covered that I am going to make sure y'all know about so you can end upwardly with a finished project you'll be proud of. Let's get started.

Check out a quick tutorial on how we put this all together!

Everything you need to get started!

Materials List:
* Ikea Billy Bookcase (3 – white)
* MDF sail cut into strips – 1/2 thick
* 1X2 inch board
* Nail gun – 16G
* Paint Caulking
* Forest filler
* Various trim (you can pick different styles to fit your look)

Keep in mind the corporeality of MDF you volition need will depend on how wide you want to go with the "built-in". The same volition get for the trim. I will give y'all the measurements I used merely please adjust accordingly for your room / build so you aren't short or the spacing is off.

**** I used plywood which works simply is much harder to get a smooth paint finish to match the Billy Bookcase (required a lot of filler and elbow grease to go shine). I am suggesting you use MDF which is smoother to beginning with and should friction match the bookcase closer then what I have. So all the photos are of plywood – I know.

Step ane: Planning and measuring

Starting time, yous will need to measure the wall that you are planning to mount the bookcase to. Each Billy bookcase is 31.five″ width by 79.v″ alpine and 11″ deep. Here is a link to Ikea for the specifics. I knew I was going to apply 3 bookcases and I wanted 6″ between each so that would be 3 10 31.5 + 12 = 106.5″ in full width that I would be using on the wall.

For the height, this volition also depend on the wall. The room has 8ft (96″) ceiling and then not a lot of room to add a big top piece. I decided on calculation xi″ top which would as well requite me a lilliputian wiggle room to place with the meridian trim blueprint.

** This was non covered in the hack I used… so learn from my mistake.
If I were to practise this over for the bottom, I would add a iii.5″ base board to wrap around the bottom. Now I adding some i/2″ trim on top of this, so information technology would be flush with the lesser shelf. If the trim you lot employ is bigger or smaller you lot will need to conform your board cuts accordingly.

With the measurements figured out, I would need the MDF cut into:

– (2) 6″ wide by 75.5″ alpine – these are the inner strips to cover the gaps
– (2) three.5″ broad by 53.25″ – base
– (2) iii.5″ broad by 10.5″ – base of operations sides
– (2) 11″ broad by 53.25″ – top
– (two) 11″ wide by 10.5″ – top sides

I used woods that was 1/2″ thick, that is why the side pieces are smaller to make the corners flush. If yous apply thicker MDF, suit your side measurements accordingly.

I cut some 1″ 10 2″ lath into studs that fastened to the tops of the bookcases. I cut them 10″ long to requite a little wiggle room for the top.

Pace 2: Associates

First movement the bookcases into position. Adjust that gap between each so that the total distance between the inside edge of ane bookcase to the within of another is six inches. This volition ensure that the embrace strip is flush with the bookcase. If you lot desire a wider gap then adjust your bookcases and the size wood you use appropriately. In one case the position is good, anchor the bookcases to the wall and then they don't motility.

Blast the wood studs to the corners and middle bookcase to provide a place we can nail the tops boards to. I used a clamp to agree the boards in place as I nailed. I started with the forepart boards first then added the side boards in instance I demand to move them a bit to get them flush. Take your time and get the seams and corners as tight and flush as you can. If they aren't perfect, that is okay – wood filler and caulking will exist your best friend soon.

Next, I nailed the comprehend strips over the gaps to seal in everything. At this point it is really taking shape.

** Meet the bottom. I should take boxed that in completely, and there would not have been a gap. Next time it will exist better.

I and so attached the lesser baseboards. First to the front and then the sides. If you are doing this on a carpeted flooring like me, you may demand to employ a level to ensure the boards are attached correctly. Otherwise, you should be able to push them to the floor and smash them direct on that style.

Step 3. Trim molding

Knowing the total length and summit, you can look at the various trim pieces that are available to y'all and put a blueprint together.

Hither are the trims I used from Lowes – you can use whatever works for you lot:

Acme molding: upper (i)
Top molding: lesser (2)

Base trim: (2)
** there may be a small gap (1/4″) on the lesser if you take a iii.5″ base board
Side trim: (2) – between bookcase and wall

A couple of tips for cut molding:

1 – use a miter saw. There a power ones, I used a manual ane for $50 at Lowes. Since these are minor trim pieces I didn't need a heavy duty saw.

2 – try to make a few cuts equally possible. If you can cut on long piece to cover the front end, do that. Don't effort to scrape together pieces unless you lot have to. If then, look up scarfing trim on how to put two pieces together.

iii- when you nail in trim, brand certain the nail drive beneath the surface. Yous are going to fill those "holes" with filler and sand them flush.

There are tons of videos on how to cut trim molding for corners. Hither we only take to deal with 45 degree cuts. As long as you keep the trim flush with the fence of the saw and yous have information technology positioned correctly (in that location will exist a top and bottom of the trim). Simply know that yous are going to take waste matter every bit you may need to cut an angle and loss some of trim to practice it. That is normal. Only make sure you buy enough trim to encompass this waste. Just because you need x feet of trim, purchase 12 feet so you take some room for all the cuts that you'll demand.

Attach the trim molding to the base, sides, and top boards. Utilise clamps to agree long pieces in place.

Pace 4. Fill up, caulking and final paint prep

Now yous are going to fill all the nail holes with wood filler. Mount all of the shelves in the place that yous desire and fill all of the adjustment holes with caulking. Caulk between every piece of trim and wood or bookcase. Caulk between the shelves and the bookcase backing. You are going to "smooth" out all of the edges, holes and imperfections. One time the filler dries, sand with 300+ dust sandpaper to smoothen everything out. I used a power sander for the big sections and paw sanded the corners and small-scale trim pieces. Use a microfiber rag to pick up all the grit earlier yous pigment.